| Trainer Tips! |
I'd like to offer a place to ask training/behavioral questions. I have been a dog trainer since 2001,
teaching basic group obedience classes, at home individual training, and sharing training advice at
my local city shelter. I also have 2 years working in vets offices. I will NEVER tell you how to
treat your dog medically, but can at least give you some basic insight and direct you from there.
The reason I want to be a resource is to help find solutions for issues that make it difficult to live
with our canine friends, which could lead to the hard decision to give the dog up to a rescue or
shelter. Let me try to nip the problem in the bud!
No question is stupid. What I have found in my group classes is that when one person brings
something up, everyone else chimes in "yeah, my dog does that, too!" So ask away!
Feel free to print from this page!
teaching basic group obedience classes, at home individual training, and sharing training advice at
my local city shelter. I also have 2 years working in vets offices. I will NEVER tell you how to
treat your dog medically, but can at least give you some basic insight and direct you from there.
The reason I want to be a resource is to help find solutions for issues that make it difficult to live
with our canine friends, which could lead to the hard decision to give the dog up to a rescue or
shelter. Let me try to nip the problem in the bud!
No question is stupid. What I have found in my group classes is that when one person brings
something up, everyone else chimes in "yeah, my dog does that, too!" So ask away!
Feel free to print from this page!
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| The Questions I have answered are in order as follows: Sorry I can't create a function for you to "jump" to each one on the page, you'll have to scroll down. I do have a link to the second page: First: One of the Most Important Things You Need to Know About Your Dog for Training (that you might not have realized) READ ME! 1. Introducing a New Dog to Your Home 2. Excessive Barking (especially during play) 3. Barking - Reactionary 4. Barking - Territorial/Aggressive Towards Visitors 5. Compulsive Chasing and Barking at the Dog Park 6. Steps for training the "Come" command 7. Housebreaking (introducing a new "toilet") 8. Aggression/Re-Ranking. When the Dog Came Before the Kids. PAGE TWO 9. Microchip Identification 10. Jumping Up on People 11. Jumping Up on Furniture 12. Separation Anxiety 13. Biting- Territorial (When the Dog Bites the Hand that Feeds Him) Including: "Drop it" Command |
One of the most important things you need to know about
your dog for training (that you might not have realized)
your dog for training (that you might not have realized)
| All Dogs Featured were Rescued and are now in Happy Homes |
The very first thing you need to commit to memory, and truly this will help in all places of
training, is that dogs do not do things out of spite, resentment, guilt, anger, etc. Anger can
be mistaken by us for aggression. Aggression is an entirely different thing, generally originating
from instinctual or taught behavior. It is never "my dog is mad at me for leaving
to go to work." So if you learn anything else about your dog today, know that he or she is
never doing anything out of an emotion. Think about the simple logic here. Let's use the
example of housesoiling. I've heard many people say "my dog was mad at me so he went
on the rug." This doesn't make sense for the dog's mind. He has an attention span of only a
few seconds, really. He pees on the rug, a minute passes, he doesn't think about the rug
anymore. So, if you aren't there to witness the behavior when it happens, the behavior cannot
be linked to his wanting to illicit a response from you. He won't remember the rug by the time
you come home. Certainly you can't imagine your dog sitting around all day thinking: "Ha, ha!
Just wait till they come home and see what I did!" Approach this from a different angle.
If he did a lovely sit/stay by himself while you were gone, do you think he's now expecting a
treat for it when you weren't there to witness it? The most logical explanation about why he
went on the rug is that he thinks it's an acceptable place to relieve himself. He realizes he needs
to go. So he goes on the rug. He isn't concerned about what you are going to say.
He's only concerned about the physical relief of his bladder. So the approach for you as his
owner is training him where the proper bathroom is (see Tip #7) so he won't do this anymore.
(Unless, of course, his going is a symptom of an illness, which then is a trip to the Vet, not a
training issue)
training, is that dogs do not do things out of spite, resentment, guilt, anger, etc. Anger can
be mistaken by us for aggression. Aggression is an entirely different thing, generally originating
from instinctual or taught behavior. It is never "my dog is mad at me for leaving
to go to work." So if you learn anything else about your dog today, know that he or she is
never doing anything out of an emotion. Think about the simple logic here. Let's use the
example of housesoiling. I've heard many people say "my dog was mad at me so he went
on the rug." This doesn't make sense for the dog's mind. He has an attention span of only a
few seconds, really. He pees on the rug, a minute passes, he doesn't think about the rug
anymore. So, if you aren't there to witness the behavior when it happens, the behavior cannot
be linked to his wanting to illicit a response from you. He won't remember the rug by the time
you come home. Certainly you can't imagine your dog sitting around all day thinking: "Ha, ha!
Just wait till they come home and see what I did!" Approach this from a different angle.
If he did a lovely sit/stay by himself while you were gone, do you think he's now expecting a
treat for it when you weren't there to witness it? The most logical explanation about why he
went on the rug is that he thinks it's an acceptable place to relieve himself. He realizes he needs
to go. So he goes on the rug. He isn't concerned about what you are going to say.
He's only concerned about the physical relief of his bladder. So the approach for you as his
owner is training him where the proper bathroom is (see Tip #7) so he won't do this anymore.
(Unless, of course, his going is a symptom of an illness, which then is a trip to the Vet, not a
training issue)
| Barnum and Me 2001 (I promise, my hair isn't that yellow anymore!) |
But when I come home and he's made a mess, he always looks guilty
(or cowers, hides, etc.)
(or cowers, hides, etc.)
Again, this is not about him expressing the human emotion you think you are seeing in him.
Trust me, I know how easy it is to personify human emotions on animals. Heck, I do it all the
time. They're our children after all, aren't they? Yes... but they don't have the wide spectrum
of emotions that we do.
So why does he look guilty? Inadvertently you are teaching your dog to actually dread your
arrival home. The scenario goes like this:
*You leave for work
*Dog pees on rug (or chews pillows, rummages through the trash, etc.)
*You come home from work
*You see the mess and get angry and try to discipline your dog
Okay... remember what I said about the short attention span. Your anger and "No!" is not
going to be associated with the mess because the dog did it so long ago (in his memory).
What he IS learning is: "my people come home, I get yelled at." So now he is being trained to
respond with fear and apprehenion to your arrival home. Period.
They don't "know they've done something wrong" That's us personifying again. What they
do know is your body language and tone of voice. And THAT is what they are responding to.
So coming home and correcting your dog long after the fact isn't making a dent in your
problem. It's just making him fearful of you. And I'm sure you'd rather have a dog wagging
his tail and happy to see you rather than anxious about being yelled at for what - he has no idea.
Trust me, I know how easy it is to personify human emotions on animals. Heck, I do it all the
time. They're our children after all, aren't they? Yes... but they don't have the wide spectrum
of emotions that we do.
So why does he look guilty? Inadvertently you are teaching your dog to actually dread your
arrival home. The scenario goes like this:
*You leave for work
*Dog pees on rug (or chews pillows, rummages through the trash, etc.)
*You come home from work
*You see the mess and get angry and try to discipline your dog
Okay... remember what I said about the short attention span. Your anger and "No!" is not
going to be associated with the mess because the dog did it so long ago (in his memory).
What he IS learning is: "my people come home, I get yelled at." So now he is being trained to
respond with fear and apprehenion to your arrival home. Period.
They don't "know they've done something wrong" That's us personifying again. What they
do know is your body language and tone of voice. And THAT is what they are responding to.
So coming home and correcting your dog long after the fact isn't making a dent in your
problem. It's just making him fearful of you. And I'm sure you'd rather have a dog wagging
his tail and happy to see you rather than anxious about being yelled at for what - he has no idea.
| Emma |
So what am I supposed to do? He's destructive! He left a mess! He's driving me crazy!
Well, the first thing you do when you walk into the house and see the mess is shrug your
shoulders "better go get the cleaning supplies." The second thing you do is examine what
YOU did wrong. Yeah... we have to take the blame on this one. And it all comes down to
the time we've spent training. Dogs will urinate where they can, chew what they can, dig
where they can, eat what they can, etc. Don't get angry, they are just dogs being dogs and
haven't fully been taught how to act appropriately in a human dwelling. That part is up to
us. Don't dispair, TRAIN! And then you will have a wonderful member of the family.
shoulders "better go get the cleaning supplies." The second thing you do is examine what
YOU did wrong. Yeah... we have to take the blame on this one. And it all comes down to
the time we've spent training. Dogs will urinate where they can, chew what they can, dig
where they can, eat what they can, etc. Don't get angry, they are just dogs being dogs and
haven't fully been taught how to act appropriately in a human dwelling. That part is up to
us. Don't dispair, TRAIN! And then you will have a wonderful member of the family.
Here are my suggestions for some training questions. Feel free to email me any issues
you and your dog are having. Although he doesn't feel spite and resentment, he does
have a natural born desire to learn and please his people.
you and your dog are having. Although he doesn't feel spite and resentment, he does
have a natural born desire to learn and please his people.
| Neo Beagle-Mix |
Question:
1. Introducing a New Dog to Your Home
1. Introducing a New Dog to Your Home
I want to adopt another dog. How do I introduce him to the dog I already have
to make sure they get along?
to make sure they get along?
Even if the dog you already have is known for being Mr. Social, there are still some precautions
you should take before bringing a new dog home. Dogs can be very territorial. Many of the
breeds were originally bred for just that! But every dog has a sense of his home being "his,"
(including the people in it).
First thing when bringing a new dog into your home - and this includes dogs who are "just
visiting" with friends- is to find a neutral place for the dogs to meet each other away from the
home. This will allow them an opportunity to gage one another and get the introductory sniffing
and ranking out of the way. Make sure they are both on leash so you can pull them away from
each other if it doesn't go swimmingly. I'd even recommend letting them have a quick first sniff
and then pulling them away immediately before they have a chance to truly react. As you are
pulling them away, make sure you are praising them and using happy vocal intonations. They
should realize they are being rewarded for meeting this new dog. Bribery with treats is always
good! Then allow them to go back to interacting again.
When they do transition into your home, still keep them on leash. Watch for aggression. It IS
okay for them to, for lack of a better description, "hump" each other. This is a domination game,
and they are vying for rank. Humping like this is not a sexually driven act. But be very aware that
the interaction is equal. If one dog is being too forceful over the other, separate them for now and
try it again later.
For the first few weeks, I recommend keeping them separated when they can't be supervised.
This will prevent any possible fights and trips to the emergency room. Even if they seem to be
best friends, you might not be there for the first moment the new dog finds your other dog's
favorite tennis ball and there is an altercation. And be sure to feed them separately so as to not
invoke food aggression.
Mainly, make sure you are praising them and making a supportive environment for both dogs.
Yes, some dogs will just never get along, but they are, by nature, social beings and really do enjoy
having another canine buddy around the house. My Golden Mix, Barnum, was never super close
to my Sheltie rescue, Sheldon. But when Sheldon died, Barnum got very anxious and needy until
Jackie came along!
you should take before bringing a new dog home. Dogs can be very territorial. Many of the
breeds were originally bred for just that! But every dog has a sense of his home being "his,"
(including the people in it).
First thing when bringing a new dog into your home - and this includes dogs who are "just
visiting" with friends- is to find a neutral place for the dogs to meet each other away from the
home. This will allow them an opportunity to gage one another and get the introductory sniffing
and ranking out of the way. Make sure they are both on leash so you can pull them away from
each other if it doesn't go swimmingly. I'd even recommend letting them have a quick first sniff
and then pulling them away immediately before they have a chance to truly react. As you are
pulling them away, make sure you are praising them and using happy vocal intonations. They
should realize they are being rewarded for meeting this new dog. Bribery with treats is always
good! Then allow them to go back to interacting again.
When they do transition into your home, still keep them on leash. Watch for aggression. It IS
okay for them to, for lack of a better description, "hump" each other. This is a domination game,
and they are vying for rank. Humping like this is not a sexually driven act. But be very aware that
the interaction is equal. If one dog is being too forceful over the other, separate them for now and
try it again later.
For the first few weeks, I recommend keeping them separated when they can't be supervised.
This will prevent any possible fights and trips to the emergency room. Even if they seem to be
best friends, you might not be there for the first moment the new dog finds your other dog's
favorite tennis ball and there is an altercation. And be sure to feed them separately so as to not
invoke food aggression.
Mainly, make sure you are praising them and making a supportive environment for both dogs.
Yes, some dogs will just never get along, but they are, by nature, social beings and really do enjoy
having another canine buddy around the house. My Golden Mix, Barnum, was never super close
to my Sheltie rescue, Sheldon. But when Sheldon died, Barnum got very anxious and needy until
Jackie came along!
| Quincy Beagle-Mix |
Question:
2. Excessive Barking During Play
2. Excessive Barking During Play
My beagle is 13 months old and barks all during play. He was barking until his eyes
were glossy and he was exhausted. I have never seen this before. He associates play
with barking. This is the only time we have the barking problem. I bought an over-sized
muzzle that doesn't restrict his breathing. When he is playing with a friend, every time
he starts barking, the muzzle goes on. Then he spends his time between playing with
his friend trying to remove the muzzle and in the process he leaves the other dog alone
while he scoots all over the place with his nose to the ground trying to remove the
muzzle. After a short while, I remove the muzzle, then he will interact with the doggie
for a while without barking and we praise him for “no barky-barky.” When the
barking begins again, I call him over to put on his muzzle while saying “no barky-
barky.” It has gotten so he has started to stop barking when he sees the muzzle
coming his way, or I show it to him saying, “No barky!” He will look at it, but
eventually during play at some point he will start the barking again. I am with him
through all this. He is never left alone with a muzzle on and the muzzle does not go
on if the playmate has aggression issues. I just don't allow them to play. Is there a
better way to stop the barking? I'm against the shock collars and the collar with the
mosquito repellent isn't used because when playing with the other dogs and he barks, it
may squirt in the eyes of the other dog. This is the only way I could think of to stop his
barking behavior with play. The muzzle is loose. He can't bark with it on but he can
drink water. It has plenty of room. Any other suggestions to help so we can get him a
companion and he won't bark the poor new family member to death?
were glossy and he was exhausted. I have never seen this before. He associates play
with barking. This is the only time we have the barking problem. I bought an over-sized
muzzle that doesn't restrict his breathing. When he is playing with a friend, every time
he starts barking, the muzzle goes on. Then he spends his time between playing with
his friend trying to remove the muzzle and in the process he leaves the other dog alone
while he scoots all over the place with his nose to the ground trying to remove the
muzzle. After a short while, I remove the muzzle, then he will interact with the doggie
for a while without barking and we praise him for “no barky-barky.” When the
barking begins again, I call him over to put on his muzzle while saying “no barky-
barky.” It has gotten so he has started to stop barking when he sees the muzzle
coming his way, or I show it to him saying, “No barky!” He will look at it, but
eventually during play at some point he will start the barking again. I am with him
through all this. He is never left alone with a muzzle on and the muzzle does not go
on if the playmate has aggression issues. I just don't allow them to play. Is there a
better way to stop the barking? I'm against the shock collars and the collar with the
mosquito repellent isn't used because when playing with the other dogs and he barks, it
may squirt in the eyes of the other dog. This is the only way I could think of to stop his
barking behavior with play. The muzzle is loose. He can't bark with it on but he can
drink water. It has plenty of room. Any other suggestions to help so we can get him a
companion and he won't bark the poor new family member to death?
| Penny at the Dog Park |
Well, you've got yourself a Beagle. Their breed is certainly known for their vocality. Howling
especially! That's what comes with a dog that was designed to flush out game on the hunt. So
you definitely do have a challenge in front of you! Just keep in mind that the barking is true to his
nature, and that even though another dog might not bark like yours does during play, it doesn't
mean your Beagle is crazy! And it also doesn't mean all is lost.
Your muzzle is a great idea. Although, as with other deterrents like shaker cans or squirt bottles,
the dogs certainly do see the object and immediately the good behavior comes back. Which isn't
altogether a bad thing. But it does mean you are policing him constantly and threatening him with
the muzzle, which can't be much fun for you.
This suggestion goes with what you have already started to do in his training. Actually train him
into a "No Bark" command. It creates an actual command rather than a reprimand for the barking.
Each time he barks, tell him, "No Bark!" Simultaneously, dangle an especially tasty food treat in
front of his nose. I can only assume food treats will be more interesting than his play buddy! He
should instantly stop barking because he can't sniff and lick the treat while barking. Let him lick
on your hand holding the treat. During this quiet time praise him continuously - - "Good boy, No
Bark, good boy. . ." Use a calming voice. Dogs match our energy. If you are calm as you
correct him, he will be apt to calm himself down. After 3 seconds of no barking, let him have the
treat and then resume play. No treat unless there has been a quiet time. Make him work for it!
The next time he barks, give a resounding "NO BARK!" in a strong voice. I am a huge advocate
on voice. I like to mimic the mother dog with a growling like sound to it. Hey, works for her!
This time require him to stop barking for 5 seconds before he gets the treat. Each time he is told
to stop barking and succeeds, he will be rewarded. If he is just too hyper because of the
excitement of his friend, pull him away to praise him in a spot away from his buddy. Part of the
reward system will be his getting to rejoin his friend. So when you are ending play to shut him
up, he will hopefully see that if he doesn't bark, play doesn't get interrupted.
If he barks even one little woof after you've given the command, scold him immediately. Timing
is everything. It'll probably be helpful to have him on leash for this training. Let it loose on the on
the ground as he plays. But it'll be there for you to grab when you need to. You will be able to
quickly get his attention and guide him away from his playmate to get his focus away from
barking and onto you and your correction. As training proceeds, the required period of silence is
increased gradually; at first "No Bark" means: No barking for the next 3 seconds, then 5 seconds,
then 10 seconds and so on. Within a single training session, you can teach your dog to stop
barking for up to 1 or 2 minutes.
If he doesn't get the picture, end play. That is the final punishment. Basically "if you can't play
nice, you don't get to play." I have known people to use a small bathroom as a "time out" area if
their dog won't stop the crazy behavior. He can come out when the barking has stopped and
goes back when it begins again.
The key is consistency. It sounds like you are already present for the duration of his play. That
is the only way this kind of training will work. You must drill it into his head over and over and
over in a short amount of time. Just don't give up! You need to outlast him. He is a puppy and
full of energy. You have to reach that point where he gets the message... and it might be many,
many "NO BARKS!" before it sinks in. Also, keep in mind he has been rewarded (by still being
allowed to play) all the times in the past he's barked while playing. So it'll seem like an uphill
battle. But dogs are about consistency and routine. You (and anyone else who is supervising
play) must correct him every single time without exception, and he'll get the picture loud and clear.
The one thing I will say about the bark collars (I, too, only like the citronella one) is they are
handy if your dog is barking, like at people walking by your house, when you aren't home. It
allows there to be a correction when no one is actually there. But in this case, you are right, the
poor playmate will be victim of the correction, too! MORE ABOUT THE BARK COLLAR NEXT!
especially! That's what comes with a dog that was designed to flush out game on the hunt. So
you definitely do have a challenge in front of you! Just keep in mind that the barking is true to his
nature, and that even though another dog might not bark like yours does during play, it doesn't
mean your Beagle is crazy! And it also doesn't mean all is lost.
Your muzzle is a great idea. Although, as with other deterrents like shaker cans or squirt bottles,
the dogs certainly do see the object and immediately the good behavior comes back. Which isn't
altogether a bad thing. But it does mean you are policing him constantly and threatening him with
the muzzle, which can't be much fun for you.
This suggestion goes with what you have already started to do in his training. Actually train him
into a "No Bark" command. It creates an actual command rather than a reprimand for the barking.
Each time he barks, tell him, "No Bark!" Simultaneously, dangle an especially tasty food treat in
front of his nose. I can only assume food treats will be more interesting than his play buddy! He
should instantly stop barking because he can't sniff and lick the treat while barking. Let him lick
on your hand holding the treat. During this quiet time praise him continuously - - "Good boy, No
Bark, good boy. . ." Use a calming voice. Dogs match our energy. If you are calm as you
correct him, he will be apt to calm himself down. After 3 seconds of no barking, let him have the
treat and then resume play. No treat unless there has been a quiet time. Make him work for it!
The next time he barks, give a resounding "NO BARK!" in a strong voice. I am a huge advocate
on voice. I like to mimic the mother dog with a growling like sound to it. Hey, works for her!
This time require him to stop barking for 5 seconds before he gets the treat. Each time he is told
to stop barking and succeeds, he will be rewarded. If he is just too hyper because of the
excitement of his friend, pull him away to praise him in a spot away from his buddy. Part of the
reward system will be his getting to rejoin his friend. So when you are ending play to shut him
up, he will hopefully see that if he doesn't bark, play doesn't get interrupted.
If he barks even one little woof after you've given the command, scold him immediately. Timing
is everything. It'll probably be helpful to have him on leash for this training. Let it loose on the on
the ground as he plays. But it'll be there for you to grab when you need to. You will be able to
quickly get his attention and guide him away from his playmate to get his focus away from
barking and onto you and your correction. As training proceeds, the required period of silence is
increased gradually; at first "No Bark" means: No barking for the next 3 seconds, then 5 seconds,
then 10 seconds and so on. Within a single training session, you can teach your dog to stop
barking for up to 1 or 2 minutes.
If he doesn't get the picture, end play. That is the final punishment. Basically "if you can't play
nice, you don't get to play." I have known people to use a small bathroom as a "time out" area if
their dog won't stop the crazy behavior. He can come out when the barking has stopped and
goes back when it begins again.
The key is consistency. It sounds like you are already present for the duration of his play. That
is the only way this kind of training will work. You must drill it into his head over and over and
over in a short amount of time. Just don't give up! You need to outlast him. He is a puppy and
full of energy. You have to reach that point where he gets the message... and it might be many,
many "NO BARKS!" before it sinks in. Also, keep in mind he has been rewarded (by still being
allowed to play) all the times in the past he's barked while playing. So it'll seem like an uphill
battle. But dogs are about consistency and routine. You (and anyone else who is supervising
play) must correct him every single time without exception, and he'll get the picture loud and clear.
The one thing I will say about the bark collars (I, too, only like the citronella one) is they are
handy if your dog is barking, like at people walking by your house, when you aren't home. It
allows there to be a correction when no one is actually there. But in this case, you are right, the
poor playmate will be victim of the correction, too! MORE ABOUT THE BARK COLLAR NEXT!
| Isabelle |
Question:
3. More Barking... Reactionary
3. More Barking... Reactionary
Now the situation is the dog reacts by barking at every motion outside, anything from
the neighbors coming home, to a car driving by. (I often say my dog will bark at a leaf
falling off of a tree) It's annoying the neighbors and driving everyone crazy. Try this:
the neighbors coming home, to a car driving by. (I often say my dog will bark at a leaf
falling off of a tree) It's annoying the neighbors and driving everyone crazy. Try this:
Sometimes the "No Bark" doesn't work because we aren't there to use the correction. As
mentioned above, they need to be corrected every single time or it won't stick. This one is almost
impossible to correct every time because most dogs do this type of barking behavior when we
aren't home. So, do the math. Think of the THOUSANDS of times she's barked and been
rewarded for it (in that she got away with it) versus the maybe couple dozen times in her life
she's been corrected and told not to. This type of situation is probably the only time age effects
the correction or training (because I firmly believe old dogs CAN be taught new tricks!) due to
the fact that the older the dog, the more times she's likely gotten away with the bad behavior. But
it doesn't mean any dog is out of luck. Just that it's going to take a lot more corrections to top
the number of rewards the dog has gotten up until this point.
BARK COLLAR: I love this tool. The Citronella is the preferred type amongst most trainers.
The collar has a small reservoir of citronella (the same that is in bug candles) that is positioned
just under the dog's chin. It's battery operated. When the dog barks, the device sprays out a mist
of citronella right at their nose. Dogs HATE citronella smell. So they learn very quickly, when I
bark, I get sprayed. When I don't bark, I DON'T get sprayed.
Now, granted this is a band-aid to the problem, but it really works. It corrects the dog EVERY
time they bark so they only get a negative response to barking, not a reward for doing it. Some
things to keep in mind, however, the dogs learn right away that as soon as the collar is off, they
can start barking again. Also, you have to stay on top of keeping the batteries charged and
replacing the citronella spray. If the batteries are dead and the dog barks while wearing the collar
(and now succeeds because the correction isn't there), they'll happily start barking again.
The citronella collar will not hurt the dogs. And it is preferred over the "shock" collars which are
the same idea, only they give a mild "buzz" shock when the dog barks. (similar to scuffing your
feet on carpet and touching metal) I saw a little Yorkie use the citronella collar at the kennel I
worked at. He was so stressed there that he was horse from barking. This collar stopped him
completely. And it only sprays when the dog wearing it barks. The Yorkie was surrounded by
other barking dogs and it never went off unless he, himself, barked.
So the idea is to do the "No Bark!" command when you are home, and then use the collar when
you can't be there to make the corrections.
mentioned above, they need to be corrected every single time or it won't stick. This one is almost
impossible to correct every time because most dogs do this type of barking behavior when we
aren't home. So, do the math. Think of the THOUSANDS of times she's barked and been
rewarded for it (in that she got away with it) versus the maybe couple dozen times in her life
she's been corrected and told not to. This type of situation is probably the only time age effects
the correction or training (because I firmly believe old dogs CAN be taught new tricks!) due to
the fact that the older the dog, the more times she's likely gotten away with the bad behavior. But
it doesn't mean any dog is out of luck. Just that it's going to take a lot more corrections to top
the number of rewards the dog has gotten up until this point.
BARK COLLAR: I love this tool. The Citronella is the preferred type amongst most trainers.
The collar has a small reservoir of citronella (the same that is in bug candles) that is positioned
just under the dog's chin. It's battery operated. When the dog barks, the device sprays out a mist
of citronella right at their nose. Dogs HATE citronella smell. So they learn very quickly, when I
bark, I get sprayed. When I don't bark, I DON'T get sprayed.
Now, granted this is a band-aid to the problem, but it really works. It corrects the dog EVERY
time they bark so they only get a negative response to barking, not a reward for doing it. Some
things to keep in mind, however, the dogs learn right away that as soon as the collar is off, they
can start barking again. Also, you have to stay on top of keeping the batteries charged and
replacing the citronella spray. If the batteries are dead and the dog barks while wearing the collar
(and now succeeds because the correction isn't there), they'll happily start barking again.
The citronella collar will not hurt the dogs. And it is preferred over the "shock" collars which are
the same idea, only they give a mild "buzz" shock when the dog barks. (similar to scuffing your
feet on carpet and touching metal) I saw a little Yorkie use the citronella collar at the kennel I
worked at. He was so stressed there that he was horse from barking. This collar stopped him
completely. And it only sprays when the dog wearing it barks. The Yorkie was surrounded by
other barking dogs and it never went off unless he, himself, barked.
So the idea is to do the "No Bark!" command when you are home, and then use the collar when
you can't be there to make the corrections.
| Brin |
Question:
4. More Barking... Territorial/Aggressive towards Visitors
4. More Barking... Territorial/Aggressive towards Visitors
The dog is territorial in the house. She doesn't like anyone entering and barks, snaps,
and growls whenever someone who isn't part of your "pack" stops by. Try this:
and growls whenever someone who isn't part of your "pack" stops by. Try this:
When you have your dog greet someone new, have her on leash. When she pulls or tries to
bark/lunge at the new person, correct her by tugging on the leash, then making her do the "sit"
command. If these are friends who don't mind being guinea pigs, give them some treats and
have them reach down to hand them to her. If she barks or gets up from her sit (including
jumping up), they should back off and you correct her by putting her into the "sit" again. Keep
forcing her back into that sit every single time she breaks from her non-barking sit. This is all
about repetition. Do it over and over. Don't give up. Don't get frustrated and stop. If you are
doing this correction a bunch of times in a row, she'll learn what you are trying to get her to do.
And if she wants that treat badly enough, she'll give in and do as you are commanding. Some
dogs will be so focused on their aggression towards the stranger, the treats won't make a
difference. So replace food treats with vocal praise and petting her. Also, keep her on your left
side. It's a canine thing, but they identify that the individual on the right is the dominant one. So
put her in the submissive position by having her on the left.
Now we're hoping she gets a treat and will find some way to trust this stranger in her home.
If she still won't settle down, try crate training her. A crate should be just big enough for her
to stand in and turn around. It isn't meant to be a punishment place, but her "time out" place
where she can calm down and collect herself. Start by giving her an old towel or blanket, some
of her favorite toys (especially chew toys so she doesn't destroy plush ones if she's stressed)
and some treats. Put her in the crate for short time periods when there isn't any activity going
on (aka stranger at the door). Be excited, use happy voices, let her know this is a GREAT
place!! If she is wearing her bark collar, she should bark while in there. If she isn't wearing it,
expect barking and such, but ignore it. When she's quieted down, then you can let her out
again. But if you let her out while she's barking, she'll think all she needs to do is bark until your
nerves have had it and she'll win and be let out. So, get her used to the crate, and then if she
overreacts to a visitor, you can put her in the crate. It might be a good idea to have the crate
in a distant bedroom where it's quiet. Have a towel over it so she can't see out and get more
stressed out. Maybe even play classical music (I use a "sound machine" to shut up my little
dog). If you don't have a crate, try a small bathroom or laundry room.
Again, she has been rewarded for this territorial barking behavior all the times she's gotten away
with it in the past. So be patient and expect her to challenge you.
This kind of problem is also related to socialization. I would also recommend a Group
Obedience Class. It will get the dog out around strangers to get her more comfortable. If you
can drill the basic commands on her (especially around strangers), you will be able to retain
focus when the dog acts up. Take 10 minutes a day to run over the basics like sit, down, stay,
come, look, etc. These are all focus commands. They train the dog to listen to you. Any
moment they are listening to you and not focused on whatever person may be walking by
outside or the visitor coming to the house, that is a moment they aren't barking! Truly, 10
minutes a day (what, 2 commercial breaks?) and you will see the difference!
bark/lunge at the new person, correct her by tugging on the leash, then making her do the "sit"
command. If these are friends who don't mind being guinea pigs, give them some treats and
have them reach down to hand them to her. If she barks or gets up from her sit (including
jumping up), they should back off and you correct her by putting her into the "sit" again. Keep
forcing her back into that sit every single time she breaks from her non-barking sit. This is all
about repetition. Do it over and over. Don't give up. Don't get frustrated and stop. If you are
doing this correction a bunch of times in a row, she'll learn what you are trying to get her to do.
And if she wants that treat badly enough, she'll give in and do as you are commanding. Some
dogs will be so focused on their aggression towards the stranger, the treats won't make a
difference. So replace food treats with vocal praise and petting her. Also, keep her on your left
side. It's a canine thing, but they identify that the individual on the right is the dominant one. So
put her in the submissive position by having her on the left.
Now we're hoping she gets a treat and will find some way to trust this stranger in her home.
If she still won't settle down, try crate training her. A crate should be just big enough for her
to stand in and turn around. It isn't meant to be a punishment place, but her "time out" place
where she can calm down and collect herself. Start by giving her an old towel or blanket, some
of her favorite toys (especially chew toys so she doesn't destroy plush ones if she's stressed)
and some treats. Put her in the crate for short time periods when there isn't any activity going
on (aka stranger at the door). Be excited, use happy voices, let her know this is a GREAT
place!! If she is wearing her bark collar, she should bark while in there. If she isn't wearing it,
expect barking and such, but ignore it. When she's quieted down, then you can let her out
again. But if you let her out while she's barking, she'll think all she needs to do is bark until your
nerves have had it and she'll win and be let out. So, get her used to the crate, and then if she
overreacts to a visitor, you can put her in the crate. It might be a good idea to have the crate
in a distant bedroom where it's quiet. Have a towel over it so she can't see out and get more
stressed out. Maybe even play classical music (I use a "sound machine" to shut up my little
dog). If you don't have a crate, try a small bathroom or laundry room.
Again, she has been rewarded for this territorial barking behavior all the times she's gotten away
with it in the past. So be patient and expect her to challenge you.
This kind of problem is also related to socialization. I would also recommend a Group
Obedience Class. It will get the dog out around strangers to get her more comfortable. If you
can drill the basic commands on her (especially around strangers), you will be able to retain
focus when the dog acts up. Take 10 minutes a day to run over the basics like sit, down, stay,
come, look, etc. These are all focus commands. They train the dog to listen to you. Any
moment they are listening to you and not focused on whatever person may be walking by
outside or the visitor coming to the house, that is a moment they aren't barking! Truly, 10
minutes a day (what, 2 commercial breaks?) and you will see the difference!
| GeriLeigh in her yard |
Question:
5. Compulsive Chasing and Barking at the Dog Park
5. Compulsive Chasing and Barking at the Dog Park
Her name is Shadow. She is a German Shepherd, Border Collie, Lab cross, looks like a
very slim black German Shepherd. And her behavior at the parks, varies a bit,
sometimes she seems very aggressive, not growling or snarling but just focused barking
and lunging and chasing. She is a year old, and at first when I took her to the off-leash
parks, she would come when called. Now, after several months of taking here there, she
does not come when called, but gradually has more and more been going after the other
dogs at the park, chasing and chasing them barking all the while. She seems to love
chasing these other dogs, some of the owners are not happy with her behavior, and she is
very hard to catch once she starts chasing.
very slim black German Shepherd. And her behavior at the parks, varies a bit,
sometimes she seems very aggressive, not growling or snarling but just focused barking
and lunging and chasing. She is a year old, and at first when I took her to the off-leash
parks, she would come when called. Now, after several months of taking here there, she
does not come when called, but gradually has more and more been going after the other
dogs at the park, chasing and chasing them barking all the while. She seems to love
chasing these other dogs, some of the owners are not happy with her behavior, and she is
very hard to catch once she starts chasing.
LAST thing she wants to do! She doesn't have a concept of the actual come command. I'll get to
LAST thing she wants to do! She doesn't have a concept of the actual come command. I'll get to
that in a minute.
I'll get to that in a minute.
I'll get to that in a minute.
that in a minute.
Sounds like Shadow is acting out her natural instincts. Frankly, from what you describe, let the
other people at the dog park say what they want. She's not doing anything wrong. If they don't
want their dogs around another dog being a DOG, they shouldn't be going to a dog park. My two
cents! If you can call her back on an admirable "come" when she is doing her herding instincts,
then let her go again, it will demonstrate to those crabby folks that you have complete control
over her. She's just being herself. And herding dogs, especially the Border Collie in her, have a
very guttural approach to their work. Part of what they do is nip at the heels of the sheep to
direct them. They come in low to the ground and almost look like they are attacking. Likewise,
many herding dogs use threatening barks- that can appear kinda scary- to not only to move the
herd, but to ward off predators. So, really, I bet she isn't being aggressive at all. She most likely
just LOOKS it. You've mentioned some HIGHLY trainable breeds in her. You have the potential
to have a very smart and disciplined dog. It'll take a lot of work at the beginning, but the rewards
will be astounding!
6. Training the come command...
This is how I teach it in my classes:
Start at home where she won't be distracted. Have a food treat in your hand (I'm all about food
bribery). Let her smell that it's there. Then close your hand in a fist with the treat. Holding her
by a regular (6 ft) leash, walk backwards with that treat hand right at her nose. If she's short,
that means bending down to her level. Be so close she is slobbering all over your fingers. As you
walk backwards say with a low, clear voice, "Come" over and over. Stop. Raise your treat hand
to your chin. She should be so focused on that treat that, as she follows your hand upward, she
should sit down right at your feet. If not, command a sit. Then, with the non-treat, drooled on
hand, grab her collar as you give her the treat with the other hand repeating clearly, "Good Come!
Good Come, Shadow! Good Come!"
I am very adamant in my classes about the grabbing the collar part. ESPECIALLY if you have a
dog who likes to run away and give chase. While you are letting her eat the treat, petting her, and
praising the "Good Come," hold securely onto the collar, maybe moving it a bit on her neck so she
feels you have a hold of it. She is going to be learning that it's okay to be secured after she is
called on a "Come" command. This helps volumes. If she ever gets out and, say, a stranger is
trying to call her and keep her out of the street. She might be scared by being lost, the cars, the
strangers, etc. So when the stranger grabs her collar to keep her safe, she may feel vulnerable
and more frightened, causing her to run off. But, if she is used to having her collar held, even in
the heightened situation, she'll allow the person to hold her collar because she's accustomed to it.
There is a bonus to this, too! She'll be more comfortable at the Vet or Groomer being walked
around by strangers by her collar. They'll thank you for it! Back to the park: I often see dogs
who want to obey their owners and come, but still want to be part of the "party" at the park. So
they run up as if to say, "see, I'm here, I listened! Gotta go, bye!" and run off again. If she is
used to having to sit and be secured as part of the entire command, you'll have her by the collar
and be able to put her leash on.
That's step one. Try it for a week every day for 10-15 minutes straight. (do it before her meal
time so she's hungry and wants that treat!)
After you've done that, the 30 foot training leash can come into play. Training leashes should be
cotton or nylon. It should not be one of those retractable leashes. It needs to be able to be loose
on the ground and for her to get the impression she doesn't even HAVE a leash on. Rope will
work, but be careful with any of these. I have a LOVELY scar on my hand from a training
session when my guy unexpectedly saw a squirrel... (gardening gloves help, too)
Don't command her into a sit or stay or anything. Let her mill about doing her own thing. Then,
call her "Shadow, COME." Remember, you've been affirming the word "come" to her. A lot of
people make the mistake and think calling just the dog's name will suffice. But she hears
"Shadow" all day long in all sorts of situations. But "come" is very specific. Okay, she didn't
respond? You have the leash. Say, "Shadow, COME" again. Then, give a yank on the leash.
Just hard enough to let her know that you're there. Show her that hand with the treat it in. Have
a happy voice. I know a lot of people revert to the "come" when they are frustrated and tired and
just want that dang dog to come to them. But YOU wouldn't run eagerly to someone angrily
shouting to you. Neither will she! Is she still not coming? Okay, now "reel her in" on the leash.
Still saying "come" still having a "happy voice" still tempting her with the treat. Have her sit, grab
her collar, and then offer her the treat and praise "Good COME." Then release her again. I
usually say a chipper "Okay!" and let her go about her business again. Repeat, repeat, repeat.
Other fun ways to instill the "come" after she gets through step 2...
If you have a fenced in yard, let her off leash. (or do this inside if you don't mind her running in
the house) You and at least one other person have a pocket full of treats. You call her "Shadow,
Come." Hopefully she's better now and will come to you. Go through the sit, collar grab, and
give her the treat... "Okay!" Then have the second person call her and go through the whole
routine. Have her run back and forth between you two. But dogs ain't dumb. She will figure this
out quickly and start automatically running to the next person after she gets her release. If she
comes to you BEFORE you've called her. Pet her, thank her very much, but no treat until she
comes with the command. Then you can mix things up. Hide behind trees or around a corner of
the house. She'll hear the word and your voice and come searching for you. I did this with my
Golden. He and I both had a blast! And it solidified the command really well. Once she is getting
the command down consistently - meaning every single time - start weaning her from those
treats. We don't want a pudgy girl! Maybe every other time give her the treat. You are always
giving her pets and love, so those will replace the fattening treats by the end.
Also, a hint: When you are practicing calling her in to "end play" mix it up. Sometimes call her
in, then let her go back for a few more minutes of play. Many times dogs hear "come" and the
definition in their heads is "play time is over" and they'll do like my dog and go as far away from
me as he can get. "Five more minutes, Mom!" So with my guy, a huge tennis ball fetcher, I call
him in, the leash comes out, but I throw the ball one or two more times. So coming to me when
the leash is there doesn't ALWAYS mean, the party is over.
Then I'd start branching out with her on the 30 foot leash. Not the dog park just yet. The dog
park is the ultimate challenge. You are going to have to have it very solid in her before you can
expect success there. Frankly, the other dogs, smells, etc, are FAR more interesting than you
are! So next go to regular parks or places that aren't her home but aren't filled with too much
extra stimuli. Even a neighbor's yard would work. Work all of the routine there. If you have
another dog (who isn't her buddy from home) who she can meet and play with on that long leash,
then you can practice with what I consider the biggest distraction around. If you can get her to
come to you INSTEAD of continuing to play with another dog, that's a great stepping stone to get
her ready for the Dog Park.
Expect her to fail at the Dog Park for a while. Try that 30 foot leash there, too. But if you are
consistent and work her 10-15 minutes daily, you will see improvement in 6-7 weeks. I teach 7
week group obedience classes and they are NOT the same dogs from week 1. It's all about the
owners giving the time at home. Come is a hard one, but only in the time commitment. Don't
give up!
LAST thing she wants to do! She doesn't have a concept of the actual come command. I'll get to
that in a minute.
I'll get to that in a minute.
I'll get to that in a minute.
that in a minute.
Sounds like Shadow is acting out her natural instincts. Frankly, from what you describe, let the
other people at the dog park say what they want. She's not doing anything wrong. If they don't
want their dogs around another dog being a DOG, they shouldn't be going to a dog park. My two
cents! If you can call her back on an admirable "come" when she is doing her herding instincts,
then let her go again, it will demonstrate to those crabby folks that you have complete control
over her. She's just being herself. And herding dogs, especially the Border Collie in her, have a
very guttural approach to their work. Part of what they do is nip at the heels of the sheep to
direct them. They come in low to the ground and almost look like they are attacking. Likewise,
many herding dogs use threatening barks- that can appear kinda scary- to not only to move the
herd, but to ward off predators. So, really, I bet she isn't being aggressive at all. She most likely
just LOOKS it. You've mentioned some HIGHLY trainable breeds in her. You have the potential
to have a very smart and disciplined dog. It'll take a lot of work at the beginning, but the rewards
will be astounding!
6. Training the come command...
This is how I teach it in my classes:
Start at home where she won't be distracted. Have a food treat in your hand (I'm all about food
bribery). Let her smell that it's there. Then close your hand in a fist with the treat. Holding her
by a regular (6 ft) leash, walk backwards with that treat hand right at her nose. If she's short,
that means bending down to her level. Be so close she is slobbering all over your fingers. As you
walk backwards say with a low, clear voice, "Come" over and over. Stop. Raise your treat hand
to your chin. She should be so focused on that treat that, as she follows your hand upward, she
should sit down right at your feet. If not, command a sit. Then, with the non-treat, drooled on
hand, grab her collar as you give her the treat with the other hand repeating clearly, "Good Come!
Good Come, Shadow! Good Come!"
I am very adamant in my classes about the grabbing the collar part. ESPECIALLY if you have a
dog who likes to run away and give chase. While you are letting her eat the treat, petting her, and
praising the "Good Come," hold securely onto the collar, maybe moving it a bit on her neck so she
feels you have a hold of it. She is going to be learning that it's okay to be secured after she is
called on a "Come" command. This helps volumes. If she ever gets out and, say, a stranger is
trying to call her and keep her out of the street. She might be scared by being lost, the cars, the
strangers, etc. So when the stranger grabs her collar to keep her safe, she may feel vulnerable
and more frightened, causing her to run off. But, if she is used to having her collar held, even in
the heightened situation, she'll allow the person to hold her collar because she's accustomed to it.
There is a bonus to this, too! She'll be more comfortable at the Vet or Groomer being walked
around by strangers by her collar. They'll thank you for it! Back to the park: I often see dogs
who want to obey their owners and come, but still want to be part of the "party" at the park. So
they run up as if to say, "see, I'm here, I listened! Gotta go, bye!" and run off again. If she is
used to having to sit and be secured as part of the entire command, you'll have her by the collar
and be able to put her leash on.
That's step one. Try it for a week every day for 10-15 minutes straight. (do it before her meal
time so she's hungry and wants that treat!)
After you've done that, the 30 foot training leash can come into play. Training leashes should be
cotton or nylon. It should not be one of those retractable leashes. It needs to be able to be loose
on the ground and for her to get the impression she doesn't even HAVE a leash on. Rope will
work, but be careful with any of these. I have a LOVELY scar on my hand from a training
session when my guy unexpectedly saw a squirrel... (gardening gloves help, too)
Don't command her into a sit or stay or anything. Let her mill about doing her own thing. Then,
call her "Shadow, COME." Remember, you've been affirming the word "come" to her. A lot of
people make the mistake and think calling just the dog's name will suffice. But she hears
"Shadow" all day long in all sorts of situations. But "come" is very specific. Okay, she didn't
respond? You have the leash. Say, "Shadow, COME" again. Then, give a yank on the leash.
Just hard enough to let her know that you're there. Show her that hand with the treat it in. Have
a happy voice. I know a lot of people revert to the "come" when they are frustrated and tired and
just want that dang dog to come to them. But YOU wouldn't run eagerly to someone angrily
shouting to you. Neither will she! Is she still not coming? Okay, now "reel her in" on the leash.
Still saying "come" still having a "happy voice" still tempting her with the treat. Have her sit, grab
her collar, and then offer her the treat and praise "Good COME." Then release her again. I
usually say a chipper "Okay!" and let her go about her business again. Repeat, repeat, repeat.
Other fun ways to instill the "come" after she gets through step 2...
If you have a fenced in yard, let her off leash. (or do this inside if you don't mind her running in
the house) You and at least one other person have a pocket full of treats. You call her "Shadow,
Come." Hopefully she's better now and will come to you. Go through the sit, collar grab, and
give her the treat... "Okay!" Then have the second person call her and go through the whole
routine. Have her run back and forth between you two. But dogs ain't dumb. She will figure this
out quickly and start automatically running to the next person after she gets her release. If she
comes to you BEFORE you've called her. Pet her, thank her very much, but no treat until she
comes with the command. Then you can mix things up. Hide behind trees or around a corner of
the house. She'll hear the word and your voice and come searching for you. I did this with my
Golden. He and I both had a blast! And it solidified the command really well. Once she is getting
the command down consistently - meaning every single time - start weaning her from those
treats. We don't want a pudgy girl! Maybe every other time give her the treat. You are always
giving her pets and love, so those will replace the fattening treats by the end.
Also, a hint: When you are practicing calling her in to "end play" mix it up. Sometimes call her
in, then let her go back for a few more minutes of play. Many times dogs hear "come" and the
definition in their heads is "play time is over" and they'll do like my dog and go as far away from
me as he can get. "Five more minutes, Mom!" So with my guy, a huge tennis ball fetcher, I call
him in, the leash comes out, but I throw the ball one or two more times. So coming to me when
the leash is there doesn't ALWAYS mean, the party is over.
Then I'd start branching out with her on the 30 foot leash. Not the dog park just yet. The dog
park is the ultimate challenge. You are going to have to have it very solid in her before you can
expect success there. Frankly, the other dogs, smells, etc, are FAR more interesting than you
are! So next go to regular parks or places that aren't her home but aren't filled with too much
extra stimuli. Even a neighbor's yard would work. Work all of the routine there. If you have
another dog (who isn't her buddy from home) who she can meet and play with on that long leash,
then you can practice with what I consider the biggest distraction around. If you can get her to
come to you INSTEAD of continuing to play with another dog, that's a great stepping stone to get
her ready for the Dog Park.
Expect her to fail at the Dog Park for a while. Try that 30 foot leash there, too. But if you are
consistent and work her 10-15 minutes daily, you will see improvement in 6-7 weeks. I teach 7
week group obedience classes and they are NOT the same dogs from week 1. It's all about the
owners giving the time at home. Come is a hard one, but only in the time commitment. Don't
give up!
| Buddah Bear |
| Daisy |
| Petey |
Question:
7. Housebreaking: Introducing a New "Toilet"
7. Housebreaking: Introducing a New "Toilet"
We got a mixed breed puppy about 6 months ago. She was dropped off at a friend's
house when she was just a puppy and lived outdoors with other dogs for about 3-4
months before we brought her home. She is housebroken, and we were taking her for
walks on the leash to go potty every time she'd let us know she had to out (sometimes
she went and sometimes she didn't). I'm hoping to go to work soon, so we put up a
fence so our son can just open the door and let her out when she needs to go potty. But
she does not seem to want to go in her yard. How can we let her know that it's okay to
go in the yard? And how long should we make her hold herself before we give in and
take her for a walk? Thanks so much for your time.
house when she was just a puppy and lived outdoors with other dogs for about 3-4
months before we brought her home. She is housebroken, and we were taking her for
walks on the leash to go potty every time she'd let us know she had to out (sometimes
she went and sometimes she didn't). I'm hoping to go to work soon, so we put up a
fence so our son can just open the door and let her out when she needs to go potty. But
she does not seem to want to go in her yard. How can we let her know that it's okay to
go in the yard? And how long should we make her hold herself before we give in and
take her for a walk? Thanks so much for your time.
Clearly she hasn't figured out that your yard is a toilet yet. From now on, for the normal times
you take her to go out to the bathroom, put her on leash and walk her in the backyard. She has
gotten used to being on leash to go, so the act of mimicking the walk in the yard should help her
associate the two and then go potty out there. Also, if you can "save" some of her poop and
place it in the yard where you want her to go, the smell of herself out there should also trigger
her to go. This is why if they go in the house, they tend to go in the same place because they
can smell themselves (no matter how much we clean!)
You can get specific where in the yard you want her to go if you choose to. Direct her to the
same place every time and praise her when she goes there. My mother gave the command
"behind the bushes" as we had a hedge and some area just behind it before our property ended.
So the dogs learned to only go to the bathroom back there. Saved us from stepping in anything
when we'd go outside!
Usually the rule of thumb for the time you allot her to do her business is 10-15 minutes. I have
the routine where I walk my dogs down the block and back. They know if they don't empty
themselves before we get back, they have to hold it until the evening! But expect her to fail at
first. Dogs are WONDERFUL with routines, as long as we give them the opportunity to learn
them. So give her 10-15 to go in the yard. Then bring her in. If she hasn't gone, you can
repeat this in half an hour. The best bet is to let her out at the same time very day. That will
solidify the routine and get her body clock working. "Ooo! 7am is potty time!" Of course, I
always remind folks that 7am still arrives on Saturday and Sunday!
Whenever she does go where you want her to, praiser her like crazy. You can even hand her
some treats to reward her. I've gotten used to praising my dogs when they go outside. I still
stand here "good boy!" I'm sure my neighbors think I'm nuts. Another trick is, I don't feed my
dogs until they have finished their walks to go to the bathroom. So they know they don't get
fed until they've gone (it also helps them hurry up!)
Likewise, don't end the outside time immediately after she goes. If at some point she decides
she wants to be outside and play, and she knows you will bring her in when she's done, she'll
hold it so she can add to her outside time. That's another reason to be strict with the time frame.
They aren't dummies!
As far as how long she can hold it during the day: Well, for puppies there is a simple key.
Take however many months old she is and add one. So, if she's 3 months old, she can hold it
for 4 hours. Now, it sounds like your girl is closer to a year or so. By then, she should be able
to hold it a full 8 hours. Of course, the more frequently she can have access to going outside,
the healthier it really is. Especially as dogs get older. The strain on their kidneys can be hurtful.
Because they DO want to obey and not go inside (once they've been trained not to). Again, my
mother's dog. When she was a senior, she would have accidents. Then hide from my mom.
My mother was never upset, she understood it was her age. But the poor girl felt she'd done
something wrong.
One last note: Make sure that even though she is going to have access to a fenced-in yard, that
you still actively exercise her. I always recommend two 15 minute walks a day. If she doesn't
get her energy out (and puppies have a lot!) you might find that without your company during
the day, she gets bored and destructive. Unfortunately, just because there is a yard, doesn't
mean she's exercised. She needs you (or another dog) to stimulate her and keep her active!)
you take her to go out to the bathroom, put her on leash and walk her in the backyard. She has
gotten used to being on leash to go, so the act of mimicking the walk in the yard should help her
associate the two and then go potty out there. Also, if you can "save" some of her poop and
place it in the yard where you want her to go, the smell of herself out there should also trigger
her to go. This is why if they go in the house, they tend to go in the same place because they
can smell themselves (no matter how much we clean!)
You can get specific where in the yard you want her to go if you choose to. Direct her to the
same place every time and praise her when she goes there. My mother gave the command
"behind the bushes" as we had a hedge and some area just behind it before our property ended.
So the dogs learned to only go to the bathroom back there. Saved us from stepping in anything
when we'd go outside!
Usually the rule of thumb for the time you allot her to do her business is 10-15 minutes. I have
the routine where I walk my dogs down the block and back. They know if they don't empty
themselves before we get back, they have to hold it until the evening! But expect her to fail at
first. Dogs are WONDERFUL with routines, as long as we give them the opportunity to learn
them. So give her 10-15 to go in the yard. Then bring her in. If she hasn't gone, you can
repeat this in half an hour. The best bet is to let her out at the same time very day. That will
solidify the routine and get her body clock working. "Ooo! 7am is potty time!" Of course, I
always remind folks that 7am still arrives on Saturday and Sunday!
Whenever she does go where you want her to, praiser her like crazy. You can even hand her
some treats to reward her. I've gotten used to praising my dogs when they go outside. I still
stand here "good boy!" I'm sure my neighbors think I'm nuts. Another trick is, I don't feed my
dogs until they have finished their walks to go to the bathroom. So they know they don't get
fed until they've gone (it also helps them hurry up!)
Likewise, don't end the outside time immediately after she goes. If at some point she decides
she wants to be outside and play, and she knows you will bring her in when she's done, she'll
hold it so she can add to her outside time. That's another reason to be strict with the time frame.
They aren't dummies!
As far as how long she can hold it during the day: Well, for puppies there is a simple key.
Take however many months old she is and add one. So, if she's 3 months old, she can hold it
for 4 hours. Now, it sounds like your girl is closer to a year or so. By then, she should be able
to hold it a full 8 hours. Of course, the more frequently she can have access to going outside,
the healthier it really is. Especially as dogs get older. The strain on their kidneys can be hurtful.
Because they DO want to obey and not go inside (once they've been trained not to). Again, my
mother's dog. When she was a senior, she would have accidents. Then hide from my mom.
My mother was never upset, she understood it was her age. But the poor girl felt she'd done
something wrong.
One last note: Make sure that even though she is going to have access to a fenced-in yard, that
you still actively exercise her. I always recommend two 15 minute walks a day. If she doesn't
get her energy out (and puppies have a lot!) you might find that without your company during
the day, she gets bored and destructive. Unfortunately, just because there is a yard, doesn't
mean she's exercised. She needs you (or another dog) to stimulate her and keep her active!)
| Shadow |
Question:
8. Aggression/Re-Ranking. When the Dog Came Before the Kids.
8. Aggression/Re-Ranking. When the Dog Came Before the Kids.
"Rascal" is a 5 year-old shepherd/collie cross. She has been with us since she was a
puppy. We are having a problem with her lately. She is showing a lot of aggression
towards people who come to visit (strangers and familiar people). She bites their feet and
shoes. We also find this aggression towards our 2 year old daughter, Rose. The dog will
growl even if Rose is just walking by minding her own business. This really worries me.
If Rose is playing near the her, Rascal will growl and curl her lip showing her teeth. I am
afraid she will bite her some day. We also have a 5 month old and are planning more
children in the future. We are unsure if the problem will get worse with each child. Can
this problem be fixed or is it best to try to find the dog another home?
puppy. We are having a problem with her lately. She is showing a lot of aggression
towards people who come to visit (strangers and familiar people). She bites their feet and
shoes. We also find this aggression towards our 2 year old daughter, Rose. The dog will
growl even if Rose is just walking by minding her own business. This really worries me.
If Rose is playing near the her, Rascal will growl and curl her lip showing her teeth. I am
afraid she will bite her some day. We also have a 5 month old and are planning more
children in the future. We are unsure if the problem will get worse with each child. Can
this problem be fixed or is it best to try to find the dog another home?
Aggression is always a tender issue. Certainly you don't want to put your children in a place of
uncertainty, nor do you want to get rid of a loving pet you've had longer than your kids!
I'm glad you told me Rascal's breeds. The two herding breeds are known for the very nipping
and biting behavior you describe that she does to people's feet and ankles. Now, the key here is,
the herding dogs do that to the sheep or goats, which they protect, but also consider "lower"
than they are in the ranking system. Let's also look at her aggression towards Rose. She is
probably not used to a small child who is active and starting to explore her world with gusto.
Here's my initial reaction from what you've told me. Rascal needs some re-ranking training.
When we train dogs, they need to know they are at the bottom of the totem pole. That in the
house, even the goldfish and the fica plant are above them and they answer to everyone else.
Re-ranking, especially to a dog who is actively showing teeth with a curled growl, is probably
best handed over to a professional. I am actually a strong advocate of NOT doing private
training, until it is a situation like you've described. This isn't an innocent "she's digging in the
yard" or "pulls on the leash" issue. She needs to be shown by a dominant instructor where her
place is in her home before she does end up hurting one of your children. Now, this is my
assessment from the brief paragraph you sent me. Any good trainer should have a initial visit
and assess Rascal before jumping right into work. Perhaps she is not as much of a threat as it
seems. But that opinion should be made in person by someone who is familiar with this type of
problem.
Now, I want to make it clear, Rascal is not a mean dog. She is not vicious, she is not a threat
that needs to be destroyed. A lot of couples will have dogs before they have children and, if
there hasn't been the right amount of socialization and training around kids, especially small ones,
the dogs aren't prepared. Without training, they react out of instinct. But that doesn't mean all is
lost, she's not a family dog, she'll never like kids, etc. Herding breeds are very, very smart and
take to training and discipline exceptionally well. So find yourself a private trainer and see what
he/she has to say. If you let me know where you are located, I can see if any of the folks I
know around the country have a trainer they can recommend in your area. For now, if she is
interacting with Rose or any other small ones, make sure someone is there to supervise. Also,
have her on leash. The leash can be loose on the ground, but if it's on, you'll be able to quickly
get control of her if she shows her teeth again. I'd give her a strong "NO!" and make her sit.
Same thing if she nips at anyone. If you know people will be visiting, have her on leash so you
can correct her when she tries the nipping again. After she sits and is calm, even if it's 5
seconds worth, praise her "good, girl!" It's not enough to just correct her. You need to reward
her for sitting and listening to you. Be careful, though. You didn't mention how she is with you
two, but if she is showing aggression and is not expecting the correction, she could have a
knee-jerk reaction and turn the aggression to you. That's why this is something I'd really
suggest you get a professional to work with her on.
Mainly, I am very, very happy you guys are addressing the problem in a progressive way. I
have known WAY too many young families who opt for the easy solution of removing the dog,
which usually means the animal is dumped in a shelter with an "aggressive" label and most likely
destroyed. It's not their fault they don't know how to behave around children.. But that CAN be
changed. Likewise, make sure you teach your children to be respectful of Rascal. Especially
while she is sleeping or eating. Young kids need to understand that some things can hurt or
frighten a dog, no matter what a sweet loving part of the family they are. When I was growing
up, I LOVED to brush my dog. She enjoyed it when my mom would brush her, but would run
for the hills if my younger brother or I pulled out the brush. I learned years later that we weren't
old enough to understand we were brushing her too hard and it hurt her.
uncertainty, nor do you want to get rid of a loving pet you've had longer than your kids!
I'm glad you told me Rascal's breeds. The two herding breeds are known for the very nipping
and biting behavior you describe that she does to people's feet and ankles. Now, the key here is,
the herding dogs do that to the sheep or goats, which they protect, but also consider "lower"
than they are in the ranking system. Let's also look at her aggression towards Rose. She is
probably not used to a small child who is active and starting to explore her world with gusto.
Here's my initial reaction from what you've told me. Rascal needs some re-ranking training.
When we train dogs, they need to know they are at the bottom of the totem pole. That in the
house, even the goldfish and the fica plant are above them and they answer to everyone else.
Re-ranking, especially to a dog who is actively showing teeth with a curled growl, is probably
best handed over to a professional. I am actually a strong advocate of NOT doing private
training, until it is a situation like you've described. This isn't an innocent "she's digging in the
yard" or "pulls on the leash" issue. She needs to be shown by a dominant instructor where her
place is in her home before she does end up hurting one of your children. Now, this is my
assessment from the brief paragraph you sent me. Any good trainer should have a initial visit
and assess Rascal before jumping right into work. Perhaps she is not as much of a threat as it
seems. But that opinion should be made in person by someone who is familiar with this type of
problem.
Now, I want to make it clear, Rascal is not a mean dog. She is not vicious, she is not a threat
that needs to be destroyed. A lot of couples will have dogs before they have children and, if
there hasn't been the right amount of socialization and training around kids, especially small ones,
the dogs aren't prepared. Without training, they react out of instinct. But that doesn't mean all is
lost, she's not a family dog, she'll never like kids, etc. Herding breeds are very, very smart and
take to training and discipline exceptionally well. So find yourself a private trainer and see what
he/she has to say. If you let me know where you are located, I can see if any of the folks I
know around the country have a trainer they can recommend in your area. For now, if she is
interacting with Rose or any other small ones, make sure someone is there to supervise. Also,
have her on leash. The leash can be loose on the ground, but if it's on, you'll be able to quickly
get control of her if she shows her teeth again. I'd give her a strong "NO!" and make her sit.
Same thing if she nips at anyone. If you know people will be visiting, have her on leash so you
can correct her when she tries the nipping again. After she sits and is calm, even if it's 5
seconds worth, praise her "good, girl!" It's not enough to just correct her. You need to reward
her for sitting and listening to you. Be careful, though. You didn't mention how she is with you
two, but if she is showing aggression and is not expecting the correction, she could have a
knee-jerk reaction and turn the aggression to you. That's why this is something I'd really
suggest you get a professional to work with her on.
Mainly, I am very, very happy you guys are addressing the problem in a progressive way. I
have known WAY too many young families who opt for the easy solution of removing the dog,
which usually means the animal is dumped in a shelter with an "aggressive" label and most likely
destroyed. It's not their fault they don't know how to behave around children.. But that CAN be
changed. Likewise, make sure you teach your children to be respectful of Rascal. Especially
while she is sleeping or eating. Young kids need to understand that some things can hurt or
frighten a dog, no matter what a sweet loving part of the family they are. When I was growing
up, I LOVED to brush my dog. She enjoyed it when my mom would brush her, but would run
for the hills if my younger brother or I pulled out the brush. I learned years later that we weren't
old enough to understand we were brushing her too hard and it hurt her.
| Opus |
| Brooklyn |
